Friday, December 9, 2011

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium

A nice article from FunZug.com

The solar eclipse of January 15, 2010 is an annular eclipse of the Sun with a magnitude of 0.9190.

This is the longest annular solar eclipse of the millennium, and the longest until December 23, 3043, with a maximum length of 11 mins and 7.8 seconds. (The solar eclipse of January 4, 1992 was longer, at 11 minutes, 41 seconds, occurring in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.)

After 108 years it just Happened.

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Sounion, Greece.
Jan. 15, 2010

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Manila Philippines

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Manila Bay, Philippines

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Dehkade, Karaj, Iran

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Weishan Lake, Shandong, China

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Bangalore, Karnataka, India

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Bükk mountains of Hungary

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Degania A, Israel

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Lijiang, China

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Kerman, Iran

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Sizihwan, Kaoshung City, Taiwan

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Esfahan, Iran

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Solar eclipse Jan 15, 2010 in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
A view of a partial solar eclipse over Gaza City.

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Bagan, Myanmar

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Rawalpindi, Pakistan
A crescent on the minaret of a mosque is reflected in the eclipse

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Kaifeng, China

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Bangkok, Thailand
The moon starts its path across the sun, obscuring a portion of it.

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium
Nairobi, Kenya

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium

The best place to view the eclipse from India is Dhanushkodi in Pamban Island off Tamil Nadu coast.

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium

Best Place to watch the eclipse of 2010 in India: Dhanushkodi in Pamban Island off Tamil Nadu coast

Longest Solar Eclipse of the Millennium

Solar eclipse 2010 in India on Jan 15, Fire Ring event once in a blue moon



Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Design

Intel's Haswell detailed: three different GPUs, single-chip solution for ultrabooks

Haswell
The demo of the 22nm Haswell running on a tiny solar cell at IDF was impressive, but it didn't really give us any idea what shipping products might look like. Well, a few slides popped up over at Chiphell that give us a few more details about how the tock, to Ivy Bridge's tick, is shaping up. For one, were looking at three new on-die GPUs, dubbed GT1, GT2 and GT3 -- the latter of which may be a higher performance part than we're used to seeing out of Intel. We also know that Haswell will have three variants: desktop, laptop (both of which are two-chip solutions with a separate controller hub) and ultrabook, which packs both the CPU and the controller in a single package. If you're in the mood to dig a little deeper hit up the source links.

Monday, November 14, 2011

how-to-shoot-the-night-sky-introdu

Several people asked me to post a simple tutorial on how I took some night sky pictures. I am not an astrophotographer in any way, shape or form, nor do I have any expensive equipment. I simply read several tutorials, picked a dark spot on the beach and tried to do my best.

Anyway, here is how I did it.

1. What you need:

You need a camera that has manual exposure mode. Most SRL camera come with a feature called Bulb which does exactly that.

You will also need a remote control or a shutter release cable in order to minimize shaking the camera when taking the pictures.

You will definitely need a tripod

2. Selecting the spot to take your picture

The darker the place, the better it is. Taking stars pictures in your back yard is possible, however for better results select a place away from city lights. Those lights tend to pollute the image and make the stars less visible.

3. Camera settings

First, try to use a lens with a large aperture. In my case I used a Sigma 28 mm lens at f/3.5

Next, set your camera at a high ISO. I tried with both 1,600 and 800 ISO and I got good results.

Finally, in order to avoid the star trail (that is avoiding capturing the movement of the stars as the earth rotates) you have to use the RULE of 600 which is very easy:
Divide 600 by the focal length of the lens you are using. In my case I divided 600/28 = 21.42 ( I can leave the shutter open for 21 seconds and avoid capturing the star trail)

Finally, put your lens in manual focusing and turn it to infinity focus (that would be the symbol at the end of the numbers on your lens)

4. Taking the pictures

Set the camera in your tripod and take at least 5 consecutive images at the stars using the correct exposure time (using the RULE of 600) Do not move the camera to a different spot or change the settings unless you are done with that series of pictures.

Tip: Every time I am done with a set of pictures, I place my hand in front of the lens and take another picture. That way I know that the picture where everything is black is where the series end.

5. Editing the images

Don’t be disappointed if you don’t see any color in your images. This is normal. You will need to bring the colors up in PS or any other editing software.

The first step is to stack the images. That is to superimpose one image on top of the others (not all the images, but pictures belonging to the same series). You can do this with a free software called Deep Sky Stacker. Just use the default settings on the software.
The final image will be a large TIF file that you will use to bring up the colors in Photoshop.

Next open your TIF file in Photoshop and edit the curves and levels. You can follow this easy tutorial on this video:

I also edited the blue, red and green colors in the level in order to make the nebula more visible.

That’s it.

Here is the original image and the final result:

Original Image:

night-sky-astrophotography.jpeg

Final Image:

night-sky-astrophotography-1.jpeg

ASUS Eee Pad Transformer Prime: 10-inch Super IPS+ display, 12-hour battery and quad-core Tegra 3, ships in December for $499

For three weeks now, Android fans have been fidgeting impatiently. Specifically, ever since ASUS chairman Jonney Shih took the stage at last month's AsiaD conference and teased the next-gen Transformer tablet. Though he only gave us a quick glimpse, he recited a laundry list of specs: a 10.1-inch display, 8.3mm-thick body, mini-HDMI output, microSD slot and an update to Ice Cream Sandwich by the end of the year, if not sooner. Not to mention, it'll pack NVIDIA's hot-off-the-presses Tegra 3 SoC, making it the first-ever quad-core tablet. We knew this: we'd learn more on November 9th.

Well, that day has come, and so have the juicy details. We just got word that the tablet will go on sale worldwide in December, starting at $499 with a beefy 32GB of storage, moving up to $599 for a 64GB model. (That signature keyboard dock you see up there will cost $149.) In addition to those basic specs Mr. Shih revealed last month, we now know this has a 1280 x 800, Super IPS+ Gorilla Glass display with a 178-degree viewing angle and a max brightness of 600 nits. It also packs 1GB of RAM, GPS, a gyroscope, SonicMaster audio and a 1.2 megapixel front-facing camera. Rounding out the list is an 8MP shooter with an auto-focusing f/2.4 lens and a back-illuminated CMOS sensor that captures 1080p video. Touch-to-focus is also an option here, and ASUS claims a 30 percent boost in color enhancement over competing tabs.

As for battery life, we initially heard reports of 14.5-hour runtime, but ASUS is now saying the tablet alone can squeeze out 12 hours thanks to a 22Wh battery, and that the dock will add an additional six hours of juice. In addition, the slimmed-down, 1.2-pound dock brings all the other benefits the last-gen model offered, including a touchpad, USB 2.0 port and full-sized SD slot. Software-wise, it'll ship with Android 3.2 and apps such as SuperNote and Polaris Office, and we're told we'll learn more about that ICS update in "early December."

In terms of design, you may have already noticed the Prime sports the same spun aluminum digs as the company's Zenbooks, though this is the first time we're seeing clear, close-up shots of it -- and in two colors, no less! At 8.3mm (0.33 inches) thick and 586 grams (1.29 pounds) without the dock, it's a smidge skinnier than the iPad 2 and Galaxy Tab 10.1, which means, unsurprisingly, that your old Transformer dock won't be compatible. Finally, ASUS coated both the display and metal cover with a hydro-oleophobic coating that makes it more fingerprint-resistant. For now, we've got photos below and if you can wait a few more weeks, we'll most definitely be putting this thing through its paces in a full review. And if you're looking for something a little less expensive, well, the original Transformer should be getting Ice Cream Sandwich soon, and we wouldn't be surprised if Santa brought a few holiday rebates.

courtesy lifehacker.com

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less


Most HDTVs ship with default settings that are meant to look good in store showrooms, but more often than not, the default presets don't take into account how the TV will look in your home, how far away from it you'll sit, or what the normal lighting in your room will be like when you fire up a new movie or watch the big game. The result: A less-than-perfect picture from the device you spent hundreds of dollars on and spend hours in front of. Thankfully, with the right tools calibrating an HDTV to your viewing style is easy, and you can do it in less than a half-hour.

Before You Get Started

All of the calibrations and settings we're going to work with here are easily accessible on most HDTVs. We won't dive into the service menu to make minute or precision changes just yet, and nothing we're about to do here is any substitute for the work of a professional calibration service. The goal here is to optimize the picture for your viewing environment and your preferences, and save you from spending money on an entry-level calibration service like Best Buy's when you could do the same yourself.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

What You'll Need:

  • An LCD or Plasma HDTV that needs calibrating
  • A Blu-Ray Player compatible with AVCHD, or Advanced Video Coding High Definition, a file format and video compression standard for high definition video. Most Blu-Ray players already support it, butScroll to Blu-Ray Players List to double-check that yours is. Alternatively, an XBox 360 capable of full HD playback will do.
  • The original remote controls for your DVD player and your HDTV (or a Logitech Harmony Remote, which can emulate the buttons on the original remotes). Generic universal remotes won't work because they're frequently missing buttons or commands required to tweak your TV's setup menus.
  • A calibration disc. The AVS HD 709 Calibration Disc is the one we're using. It's free, easy to use, has all of the calibration patterns we'll need, and can be downloaded and burned to a DVD or Blu-ray Disc.

The AVS HD 709 isn't the only calibration disc available, there are others like the Spears and Munsil calibration disc or Digital Video Essentials that have their own tutorials. We're sticking with the AVS HD 709 because it's free, can be downloaded and burned to a standard DVD or a Blu-ray disc and played in just about any player (even in an HTPC or Xbox 360), and its easy to get started with. Combined with this guide, you'll get great results.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

Step 1: Find Your Contrast, Brightness, and Other Basic Picture Settings

Before you do anything, the first thing to do is make yourself familiar with your TV's controls and their current settings. If you unboxed your television, put it on your entertainment center, turned it on, and never looked back, now's the time to grab your remote, grab the manual (or visit the manufacturer's web site to download a copy) and take a look at the settings. You're going to need to know how to get to the contrast, brightness, overscan (sometimes labeled "picture size" or "HD size"), and other basic settings to calibrate your television.

If you've never spent quality time with the settings, it's also possible you have your set dialed in to the "vivid" or "cinema" modes that the manufacturer configured to make their set pop on store shelves. That's fine if your TV is one among a wall of dozens, but it's horrible for watching movies, sports, or Blu-ray discs. Once you've figured out how to get into your TV's settings, the first thing you should do is set everything back to their defaults, just in case. It's always better to start from a clean slate.

Now drop the AVS HD 709 into your Blu-ray player (which may also need to be set to its default video output settings, if you've changed them) and let's get started.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

Step 2: Eliminate Overscan for Full, Pixel-to-Pixel Viewing

The first and easiest change you can make to your TV to improve your viewing experience is to eliminate overscan. 1:1 pixel mapping for your HD video, making your video look stretched out. Plus, overscan eliminates the area around the edges of the screen, so you're missing detail you may want to see. Here's how to fix it.

  • After loading the AVD HD 709 calibration disc, start the "Basic Settings" program from the DVD menu.
  • Forward to the 5th chapter to see the overscan and calibration image shown here.
  • If you can see the entire image, including the outside white line, overscan on your set is disabled. If all you see at the edges of your screen are one of the blue borders, overscan is turned on, and it's time to turn it off.
  • Put the DVD remote down, pick up the TV remote, and go to your TV's "picture size" or "screen size" settings. (On my Panasonic plasma, this setting is buried under "HD size," so look around for any option you get to select the size and shape of the display area.)
  • Change the settings until you can see the white line on the outside. There's almost always an option that disables overscan entirely.

With overscan disabled, you can rest knowing that you're actually seeing everything that was intended to be seen on your Blu-ray discs or HD programs, and none of the outside detail is being clipped away thanks to an holdover from the days of old television sets. Plus, when you're watching true HD programming in 1080p/i you'll know you're getting the whole picture, pixel-for-pixel, as clear as possible.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

Step 3: Tweak the Brightness forDeep, Dark Black Levels

Brightness on a television, or "black level," on some sets, actually has little to do with how much "pop" the screen has, and instead defines at what level the darkest areas of the screen stop. In other words, it's the setting where your TV stops reducing power to the pixels and says "okay, that's dark enough to be black." Turn it up too high, and black areas in your picture are washed out and grainy. Turn it down too low and you lose all detail in dark areas of a scene, and everything looks like it was shot in a basement.

Brightness should be configured when the TV is nice and warmed up and the lighting in your living room or bedroom is set to its normal level for when you watch television. This is important—the degree to which the human eye can interpret detail in dark areas is directly related to the amount of ambient light in the room, so make sure the lighting in the room is normal for when you most often watch your television. Here's how you configure brightness using the AVS HD 709 disc:

  • From the DVD menu, select "Basic Settings" and start the first chapter. You'll see the test pattern here. In motion, there are flashing white bars behind each number, so don't be surprised.
  • Line 16 is your "reference black," or the area that should always be black, even though there are subtle white bars flashing behind the others.
  • Pick up your TV remote, and in the display settings, change the brightness so line 16 is always black and you can no longer see the flashing white bar behind it, but you can see the flashing white bar behind line 17.
  • If you're properly dialed in for your room and your set, you should barely be able to make out the flashing bars behind line 17 and up, and the higher you go, the more obvious the flashing bars should be. Line 16 and below should remain black, no matter what. If you're borderline between a little higher or a little darker, go darker.

Most televisions have the brightness set entirely too high by default, so it's just a matter of bringing it down until it's configured just right. Keep in mind though that if you're calibrating your TV in a room that's brighter than usual, your ability to see dark detail will be reduced. If you add a lamp to your living room or start watching more movies with the lights on, you should come back here and tweak the brightness again so you're not missing anything.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

Step 4: Adjust the Contrast for Pure, Bright White

Contrast (not Contrast Ratio, which is not something you can change) represents the total light output of the picture. Unfortunately, in order to make the image on the screen "pop," most manufacturers turn the contrast entirely too high before they ship their sets. Contrast settings define the overall light output of the set, and this time your goal is to keep the light output as high as possible without sacrificing image quality or detail. Here's what to do:

  • Again, select "Basic Settings." Fast forward to the third chapter. You'll see the test pattern shown here. There should be subtle black lines flashing behind each number.
  • Pick up the TV remote. Adjust the contrast so you can clearly see the flashing bars behind lines 230-234.
  • Line 235 is "reference white," or the limit above which there's supposedly no additional detail in HD video, so if you can't see the flashing bars beyond it, you're in good shape. If you can, don't worry - that just means you'll get the detail if there is any, but don't go crazy trying to get the contrast set so you can see it. You'll know it's too high if the flashing bars start to take on a reddish color—they should be grey at all times.
  • Now that your contrast is dialed in, grab the DVD remote, and back up to the 2nd chapter. You'll see the test pattern below.
  • This test pattern, with a white outer border and a black bar across the horizontal center, lets you calibrate brightness and contrast simultaneously. Changing contrast affects brightness, and vice versa, so you want to make sure that after changing one, you haven't adversely changed the other.
  • On this test screen, you'll see flashing grey bars behind the white numbers at the top, and flashing white bars behind the black bars in the center. Again, reference white and reference black are noted.
  • Make sure that anything below reference black is truly black and you don't see flashing bars. Make sure anything above reference white is either pure white and not flashing, or that the grey bars are faint and grey without any color or hue. Make very fine adjustments here, nothing big.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less If you set the TV settings to the default like we suggested, your TV's "color temperature" should be set to its default, or "normal" setting. If not, make sure you do this when you're tweaking the brightness and the contrast—it will make sure that your whites are pure white and don't take on some a blueish tone (if your color temperature is set to "cool") or a reddish hue (if your color temperature is set to "warm"). If you're set to normal and your whites are still too blue, go ahead and switch to the warm color temperature. Ideally, you want your color temperature as close as possible to 6500 Kelvin (6500K), or the reference temperature used by directors and producers when they shoot and edit video. Often this is accomplished by switching to the "warm" setting, but only do so if it looks realistic—don't do it because you feel like you "have to."

Once you're finished here, your brightness and contrast are all dialed in. It's time to move on to sharpness.

Step 5: Adjust the Sharpness for a Clearer Picture

Sharpness creates the illusion of clearer, crisper images by artificially inflating the peak white in your display. You're adding information to the image you see on-screen, and by increasing the sharpness you're trying to walk the line between making sure black lines and borders aren't fuzzy and everything is as crisp as it can be without making compression artifacts in your HD television streams or Blu-ray discs really obvious on-screen. Some enthusiasts insist that because turning up the sharpness introduces information to the picture that was never intended to be there, you should set it to zero and move on—I can respect that, but give it a try first and see if you like it before you turn it off completely. Here's how you do it:

  • From the DVD menu on the AVS HD 709, go back to "basic settings" and forward to the fifth chapter—that's right, the same one we used for overscan. (If you're curious why we didn't do this first, it's because it's important to have brightness and contrast properly set before working with sharpness.)
  • The pattern in the center of the screen will be your guide here. Grab the TV remote, and turn the sharpness all the way up. You should notice that around the edges of the black lines you'll start to see a Moire Pattern, or lines where there really shouldn't be any. They may look like a curved line pattern, radially stretching across the black lines.
  • That's your cue that the sharpness is up entirely too high. Back it down from there until you can no longer see the radial patterns across the black lines, but the black lines themselves stand out full and clear from the white space between them. It'll be difficult, and it'll take a good eye.
  • Be careful not to turn the sharpness down too far (unless you hate it anyway) because you may wind up softening the detail in the image and the black lines will appear a little fuzzy. Experiment, and see what makes you most comfortable.

Sharpness is a contentious feature. The only way to decide whether you want to turn it off entirely or leave it on is to give it a try. The important thing to do is to set it somewhere that enhances the viewing experience for you. If you're having trouble, start in the center instead of the extremes and work your way around the scale from there.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

Step 6: Make Sure You're Not Bleeding Colors

Finally, it's time to check and make sure that you can clearly see the difference between each color in a broad gradient, that you can clearly see the difference between green and red, and the difference between shades of green and red. To check, you'll need a color pattern that steps through color gradients evenly. Thankfully, our calibration disc has a pair of color patterns to help.

  • At the DVD menu, select "Misc Patterns."
  • Select "A - Additional," and forward to the third chapter. You should see the stepping pattern here.
  • Look closely and make sure that you can see the steps between each color, from brightest to darkest, and even to black, even if they're subtle.
  • If you can't make out the color stepping, there's no simple fix by tweaking one setting, but you can try backing off of the brightness or lowering the sharpness a little bit to make sure the colors aren't too washed out.
  • Once you're satisfied that you can see the color stepping, move forward to the next chapter to test for color clipping.
  • The pattern you'll see is similar to the contrast and brightness patterns. Make sure you can see the flashing lines up to the Green, Red, and Blue markers in each column (number 235) and afterward the colors should be solid.
  • Again, there's no quick fix if it's not configured properly, but tweaking the brightness or sharpness can help a bit.

If everything is set up correctly, these steps should just be to test the colors after everything else is tweaked to be just the way you like. You can adjust the tint to try and adjust clipping or bleeding, but we'll get to that in a moment. Remember, every time you adjust brightness or contrast, you should go back to the combined test pattern to make sure they're aligned well, so don't change one without checking the other afterward.

How to Calibrate Your HDTV and Boost Your Video Quality in 30 Minutes or Less

Extra Credit: Get a Blue Filter and Adjust the Tint

If you're up for some extra credit, adjusting the Tint on your HDTV will make sure that skin tones look realistic and lifelike, and people with pale skin don't take on a green or reddish tone, and people with dark skin don't look brownish-green.

The key to adjusting the tint properly is to get a blue filter or a pair of blue glasses first. Blue glasses are available from THX for less than $2, and if you pick up the Digital Video Essentials calibration disc we mentioned earlier, it'll ship with one. If your HDTV has a built-in "blue mode," that you can turn on and off in the settings, use that instead! Using your set's built-in blue filter will give you the best results, but fair warning, it's not common and only some of the newest sets released in the past two years have them. Once your blue filter is on-screen or in front of your eyes, here's how you adjust the tint:

  • From the "Basic Settings" program, skip forward to chapter 4, the flashing color test. You should see the test pattern shown here, with the small boxes inside the broad lines flashing periodically. Under blue filter, those vertical lines should be blue and black.
  • Adjust the tint up or down (most sets leave it in the middle by default) until the flashing box inside the blue lines fades away completely, and you can no longer see it flashing.

That's all there is to configuring tint. When you take off the blue filter, you may not notice too much of a difference, but it'll be there when you watch a Blu-ray disc when people's skin tones look more natural. As always, you may need to go back and check brightness and contrast to make sure those settings still look good to you now that you've adjusted another setting.

Check Your Work: Watch a Blu-Ray Movie or Full-HD Video

Once you've finished adjusting your TV's settings, it's time to put it to the test. Fire up your favorite Blu-ray movie or stream something from the web (as long as it's full 1080p/i HD)—preferably something colorful—and take a good look to make sure you're happy with the way everything turned out. If you're not, tweak the individual settings or repeat the process above to dial in your settings just right.

If you're looking for good films with vibrant color that you can use to test your calibration, I recommend a movie that's translated well to Blu-ray, like The Fifth Element, 2001: A Space Odyssey, or just about any Disney film. The point isn't to enjoy the film (unless you like it, of course) but to test your tint settings to make sure flesh tones look natural, contrast and brightness to make sure you can see details in dark corners and spaces, overscan to make sure you're not losing any of the picture off the sides of the screen, and color to make sure bright colors don't glow unless they're supposed to, and aren't washed out and dull.

You may need to watch a few movies, football games, and TV shows to really make sure you're happy with the settings, so don't hesitate to try something else, watch it, and change the settings some more even if you've settled on something. The goal is to calibrate your TV to your viewing environment and your eye. Don't be shy!

Graduate School: Get Into the Service Menu for More Precise Tweaks

Now that your TV is calibrated, you can trust that you're seeing the Blu-ray movies and streaming video you own the way they were intended to be viewed, and the best your HDTV can display given your living room. However, HDTV calibration doesn't stop here. In fact, we've only scratched the surface of what you could do.

Many professional HDTV calibration services will access your TV's service menu using a special code or combination of button-presses on the remote control or the side of the TV, and fine-tune the picture with the more granular and precise controls available there. However, there's a reason your owner's manual won't tell you how to get into the service menu and what all of the options are—most manufacturers will tell you that only certified and qualified professionals should work in there, warn you that you'd void your warranty by doing so, and advise you that mistakes and errors in the service menu can render your HDTV inoperable. That's right—it can brick your HDTV.

That's no excuse to learn more. If you're interested in getting under the hood to do some serious fine tuning and additional calibration, a good place to start reading is the AVS Forum. Most manufacturers and HDTV models have a thread or sub-board there that you can lurk in and read to learn as much as you can about your set before you dive in. The community at the AVS Forum is helpful and willing to answer informed questions. When you're ready to take the plunge, you'll also likely find your service code and some calibration settings to try posted by a fellow user who's been where you are with the set you already own.


A few basic tweaks to your HDTV's picture settings will yield big benefits the next time you sit down to watch the big game or fire up your copy of Planet Earth on Blu-ray, and they don't take much time to make. Just make sure you keep your calibration disc handy in case you want to refine your settings or calibrate another TV, and don't be afraid to tinker with the settings if something doesn't look right. After all, it's your viewing experience that matters.

Have you calibrated your HDTV? How did you set it up? Share your experiences in the comments below.


courtesy lifehacker.com

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

A Collection of Inspirational Steve Jobs Quotes About Life, Design and Apple

In this roundup, we’ve collected 60 of the most inspiring Steve Jobs quotes.

Thank you Steve.


“Sometimes when you innovate, you make mistakes. It is best to admit them quickly, and get on with improving your other innovations.” – via

“Being the richest man in the cemetery doesn’t matter to me … Going to bed at night saying we’ve done something wonderful… that’s what matters to me.” – Wikiquote, as quoted in The Wall Street Journal (Summer 1993).

“We’ve gone through the operating system and looked at everything and asked how can we simplify this and make it more powerful at the same time.” – ABC News, Jobs on Mac OS X Beta

“Be a yardstick of quality. Some people aren’t used to an environment where excellence is expected.”

“I want to put a ding in the universe.”

“I was worth over $1,000,000 when I was 23, and over $10,000,000 when I was 24, and over $100,000,000 when I was 25, and it wasn’t that important because I never did it for the money.”

“Unfortunately, people are not rebelling against Microsoft. They don’t know any better.” – Wikiquote, Interview in Rolling Stone magazine, no. 684 (16 June 1994)

“Bill Gates‘d be a broader guy if he had dropped acid once or gone off to an ashram when he was younger.” – The New York Times, Creating Jobs, 1997

“The only problem with Microsoft is they just have no taste. They have absolutely no taste. And I don’t mean that in a small way, I mean that in a big way, in the sense that they don’t think of original ideas, and they don’t bring much culture into their products.” – YouTube

“My job is not to be easy on people. My jobs is to take these great people we have and to push them and make them even better.” – All About Steve Jobs

“We made the buttons on the screen look so good you’ll want to lick them.” – Wikiquote, as quoted in Fortune magazine (4 January 2000)

“Click. Boom. Amazing!” – Macworld keynote 2006

“You can’t just ask customers what they want and then try to give that to them. By the time you get it built, they’ll want something new.” – Inc. Magazine

“That’s not what we think design is. It’s not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works” – New York Times, The Guts of a New Machine, 2003

“Why join the navy if you can be a pirate?” - As quoted or paraphrased in Young Guns: The Fearless Entrepreneur’s Guide to Chasing Your Dreams and Breaking Out on Your Own (2009) by Robert Tuchman

“Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower.” – via

“I mean, some people say, ‘Oh, God, if [Jobs] got run over by a bus, Apple would be in trouble.’ And, you know, I think it wouldn’t be a party, but there are really capable people at Apple. My job is to make the whole executive team good enough to be successors, so that’s what I try to do.” – CNNMoney

“It’s not about pop culture, and it’s not about fooling people, and it’s not about convincing people that they want something they don’t. We figure out what we want. And I think we’re pretty good at having the right discipline to think through whether a lot of other people are going to want it, too. That’s what we get paid to do.” – CNNMoney

“So when a good idea comes, you know, part of my job is to move it around, just see what different people think, get people talking about it, argue with people about it, get ideas moving among that group of 100 people, get different people together to explore different aspects of it quietly, and, you know – just explore things.” – CNNMoney

“When I hire somebody really senior, competence is the ante. They have to be really smart. But the real issue for me is, Are they going to fall in love with Apple? Because if they fall in love with Apple, everything else will take care of itself.
They’ll want to do what’s best for Apple, not what’s best for them, what’s best for Steve, or anybody else.” – via

“We don’t get a chance to do that many things, and every one should be really excellent. Because this is our life. Life is brief, and then you die, you know? And we’ve all chosen to do this with our lives. So it better be damn good. It better be worth it.” – Fortune

“Almost everything–all external expectations, all pride, all fear of embarrassment or failure–these things just fall away in the face of death, leaving only what is truly important. Remembering that you are going to die is the best way I know to avoid the trap of thinking you have something to lose. You are already naked. There is no reason not to follow your heart.” – Steve Jobs’ Stanford Commencement Address

“Here’s to the crazy ones, the misfits, the rebels, the troublemakers, the round pegs in the square holes… the ones who see things differently — they’re not fond of rules… You can quote them, disagree with them, glorify or vilify them, but the only thing you can’t do is ignore them because they change things… they push the human race forward, and while some may see them as the crazy ones, we see genius, because the ones who are crazy enough to think that they can change the world, are the ones who do.” – Think Different, narrated by Steve Jobs

“In most people’s vocabularies, design means veneer. It’s interior decorating. It’s the fabric of the curtains of the sofa. But to me, nothing could be further from the meaning of design. Design is the fundamental soul of a human-made creation that ends up expressing itself in successive outer layers of the product or service.” – Fortune

“So we went to Atari and said, ‘Hey, we’ve got this amazing thing, even built with some of your parts, and what do you think about funding us? Or we’ll give it to you. We just want to do it. Pay our salary, we’ll come work for you.’ And they said, ‘No.’ So then we went to Hewlett-Packard, and they said, ‘Hey, we don’t need you. You haven’t got through college yet.” – Classic Gaming

“The people who are doing the work are the moving force behind the Macintosh. My job is to create a space for them, to clear out the rest of the organization and keep it at bay.” – Macworld

“Your time is limited, so don’t waste it living someone else’s life. Don’t be trapped by dogma – which is living with the results of other people’s thinking. Don’t let the noise of other’s opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary.” - Steve Jobs’ Stanford Commencement Address

“I’m the only person I know that’s lost a quarter of a billion dollars in one year…. It’s very character-building.” – Wikiquote, as quoted in Apple Confidential 2.0: The Definitive History of the World’s Most Colorful Company (2004) by Owen W. Linzmayer

“I’m as proud of what we don’t do as I am of what we do.” – Businessweek

“Quality is more important than quantity. One home run is much better than two doubles.” – Businessweek

“I’ve always wanted to own and control the primary technology in everything we do.” – The Seed of Apple’s Innovation

“It comes from saying no to 1,000 things to make sure we don’t get on the wrong track or try to do too much.” - The Seed of Apple’s Innovation

“It’s really hard to design products by focus groups. A lot of times, people don’t know what they want until you show it to them.” – Businessweek, 1998

“Innovation has nothing to do with how many R&D dollars you have. When Apple came up with the Mac, IBM was spending at least 100 times more on R&D. It’s not about money. It’s about the people you have, how you’re led, and how much you get it.” - Fortune, Nov. 9, 1998

“I’m convinced that about half of what separates the successful entrepreneurs from the non-successful ones is pure perseverance.”

“It’s rare that you see an artist in his 30s or 40s able to really contribute something amazing.” – Playboy interview, 1985

“I feel like somebody just punched me in the stomach and knocked all my wind out. I’m only 30 years old and I want to have a chance to continue creating things. I know I’ve got at least one more great computer in me. And Apple is not going to give me a chance to do that.” – Playboy, 1987

“I didn’t see it then, but it turned out that getting fired from Apple was the best thing that could have ever happened to me. The heaviness of being successful was replaced by the lightness of being a beginner again, less sure about everything. It freed me to enter one of the most creative periods of my life.” - Steve Jobs’ Stanford Commencement Address

“Do you want to spend the rest of your life selling sugared water or do you want a chance to change the world?” – Steve Jobs’ famous question to John Sculley, former Apple CEO

“The products suck! There’s no sex in them anymore!” – Businessweek

“The cure for Apple is not cost-cutting. The cure for Apple is to innovate its way out of its current predicament.” - As quoted in Apple Confidential 2.0: The Definitive History of the World’s Most Colorful Company (2004) by Owen W. Linzmayer

“If I were running Apple, I would milk the Macintosh for all it’s worth — and get busy on the next great thing. The PC wars are over. Done. Microsoft won a long time ago.” – Fortune, 1996

“You know, I’ve got a plan that could rescue Apple. I can’t say any more than that it’s the perfect product and the perfect strategy for Apple. But nobody there will listen to me.” – Fortune, 1995

“Apple has some tremendous assets, but I believe without some attention, the company could, could, could — I’m searching for the right word — could, could die.” – TIME, 1997



Coutesy-Macstories.net

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Free VoIP calling solution for Facebook users.

Bobsled
Price: Free

Bobsled is a Facebook application by American mobile operator T-Mobile to let users have voice conversations for free. Although it is by T-Mobile, it can be used by anyone and anywhere in the world with an Android or iOS, or even through the browser (IE8, IE9, Chrome 10+, and Firefox 3.6+ for Windows; Safari 5, Chrome 10+, and Firefox 3.6+ for Mac OS X). FB users can make free calls to FB friends and any mobile or landline in the US, Canada, or Puerto Rico for free even from overseas.

How it works
To start the browser version of Bobsled, you need to go to the homepage of the application and click on For Your Browser button. You will then be taken to a page where you are required to log into FB and allow the application access. Once this is done, you will see your friends list.


Review: Bobsled


Friends list is visible once you log into Bobsled in the browser.


Next, you must click on the user with whom you want to start a conversation. At this stage, you can only use text chat. To enable voice calling, you must click on the Call button between your picture and your friend's picture. Click on Download Now button when prompted, to download Bobsled software, which is an 8.1 MB file. Once downloaded, run this file and follow the setup instructions to set up your browsers for making calls. Make sure you have connected a headset with microphone to the computer to be able to converse.

Post installation of the software, clicking the Call button will provide you with options to either call your friend online, to the phone, or just leave a voice message. The first and last options are always available, however the second option lets you call any landline or mobile number in the US, Canada, or Puerto Rico at no charge. While you can make calls from just about anywhere, the recipient has to be in one of these three countries to be able to receive your call.


Review: Bobsled


Different calling options are available after installing the software.


Review: Bobsled


You can call a landline number using this dialer.


If your friend is offline, you will be automatically asked to record a voice message and add a text note to it. This will then be posted on your friend's wall.


Review: Bobsled


Leave a voice message if your friend is offline.


For iOS users, the app can be downloaded from the iTunes store at http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bobsled/id456700444?mt=8. This app works with the iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad, and requires iOS 4.2 or later.

Once installed, you must log into your FB account on your device after launching the Bobsled app. In this case too, you have to tap on one of your friends from the list to start a conversation.


Review: Bobsled


Friends list visible in the Bobsled app.


As before, your friend does not need to download anything to receive your call. However, there are a few more options in this version. You can add contacts to favourites or send invitations to friends to try this Bobsled.


Review: Bobsled


A few more options are available in the app version of Bobsled.


You can opt to make a call to your friend by clicking on the Phone Call button and the call will be made as before. There are Mute and Speaker controls similar to the ones available when you make a normal phone call.


Review: Bobsled


Call in progress in the Bobsled app.


However, if your friend is offline, you can click on Leave Message button and record a voice message, which will leave a public message on your friend's wall.


Review: Bobsled


You can record a voice message and post on your offline friend's wall.


Google Android device users can download the application from the Android Market at https://market.android.com/details?id=com.vivox.bobsled. It is functionally similar to the iOS version and therefore does not warrant a separate explanation.

In all the above cases, your friend need not have Bobsled installed or even be using the app. The person you call receives a Facebook chat message accompanied by ringing from you with a link. When he \ she clicks on the link in the message, your call will be connected. If your friend does not answer, you can use Facebook chat to determine if they are available. If the friend is using Bobsled, he \ she can answer the call by clicking on the Answer button after it rings.

Last but not the least, we must mention that Bobsled is not meant to be used for emergency calls as it makes no claims that it will always be able to place the call.

The Verdict
Bobsled is a useful application indeed. Facebook users can call each other using the browser or app method. VoIP calling is also possible and the voice quality is good with the browser and better with the app. It even works if you are using a GPRS connection, although a 3G or Wi-Fi connection is recommended for the best results. However, its usability as a VoIP calling tool is limited to the US, Canada, and Puerto Rico at least for now, which means that applications such as Skype are still preferable if you need to call anywhere in the world, even though it means paying the cost. It is nevertheless a very good means of communication for those whose relatives reside in the above three countries because it doesn't cost anything to make an international call.